Crafting A Pack Frame

It was something that I had not noticed.

We were out on a camping trip recently. A friend pointed it out to me. And, sooner than later, it is going to let me down.

I’ve carried that old external frame military surplus pack for several years now. It’s been a good one and still is. An external frame supposedly allows you to remove the pack in order to convey items other than what is held inside the pack itself. I’m not so sure I would want to do that with this particular pack. It looks a little complicated.

I like the 5 small outside pockets that allow me to categorize contents into designated compartments that allow me to easily access them. It has a main compartment as well as a bottom compartment. The problem is that one of the shoulder straps is about to give out. 

Machine sewn stitching. Time. Wear. Could be that the next trip will cause it to give way and there I am having to perform some jury rig repair in the woods.

So the situation got me to thinking.

A large part, at least it is supposed to be a large part, of woodcraft is about making … crafting … the items you need.

It may not, for most of us, be practical crafting all the items in our kits. A hank of paracord and tarred bank line will always trump anything that we can braid from natural materials. A bought compass is far more useful than a magnetized needle floating on a leaf. A tarp is a lot more versatile than a pile of debris. And so on with items we are accustomed to using on a regular basis. Not that we can’t improvise and get along without these purchased items via the practice of primitive skills. Doing so, however, takes most of us well beyond our rehearsed skills levels.

But what about the pack itself?

I’ve known about the 3-stick Roycroft pack frame for a long time. People that make them and use them think they are great. Mors Kochanski swears by them. The idea that Mr. Kochanski prefers them over bought packs is a lot of reason to consider the 3 stick design.

I figured what the heck. With some time on my hands, and a shoulder strap about to blow, why not just get into it. Give it a go. And use only tools that I would normally have with me in the woods … a folding saw, a knife, and an awl. I used the awl on my Swisse for the center hole on the first toggle then sped up the process on the other 7 with a brace and bit. I fudged a little. Truth is, though, that the center holes in the toggles aren’t necessary. I think the idea of the toggle being held on by a knot in the end of the paracord is simpler and more lasting than tying the paracord around the toggle. Rather than compromising the strength of the side sticks by drilling holes in them, I tied the toggle cords to the side sticks.

3 sticks. The bottom stick should be as long as from the bend of your elbow to the tips of your fingers. The 2 side sticks from your armpit to your fingertips. These lengths tailor the frame to any individual stature … child, adult, tall, or short.

The diameter of the sticks? Large enough to have some strength and small enough to be light. Although not necessary, I notched my bottom stick to make for a better lashed joint.

I used #18 tarred bank line for lashings. #36 is substantially stronger but for this project the #18 is amply strong. Any good strong cordage will work. Otzi and other primitives likely used rawhide or some other natural material. I like the tarred line. The stuff isn’t subject to slippage when you pull it tight and makes for some bodacious lashing.

I’ve not seen it on frames. Not that others haven’t done it. There’s not many original ideas floating around. I thought it a good idea to add some webbing to the frame to insure that a lighter and narrower bundle wouldn’t slip between the sides … whether that bundle is a lighter camping load or a sack of boned out deer meat from deep enough in the woods to make dragging a deer a terrible chore.

Adding the shoulder straps is a simple thing. One length of 2” nylon webbing looped over the top and tied to the bottom stick. I heated the ends to keep them from unraveling. One side is tied close with a short tag end. The other has a longer tag end to allow tightening or loosening depending upon the season and thickness of my clothing.

Everything that I normally carry in what I refer to as my “mainframe” is wrapped in a bundle and lashed onto the pack frame. I borrowed this wool blanket from our collection but will replace it with an old olive green wool one that doesn’t attract so much visual attention. The dry weight of the kit is 34 pounds. Several pounds of that weight is wool blankets. 2 that form my bedroll. 1 that holds my kit.

How does it carry?

I shouldered it and walked around the yard a bit. I was honestly surprised by how easy it carries. The long flat bundle riding close to the body has no tendency to make you lean forward to carry the load. The only flaw that I discover in the design is that accessing the contents of the kit requires unlashing and unfolding then refolding and relashing to continue on. I’m kind of spoiled on all those extra pockets on my surplus pack.

Not that this is a major hardship. It’s just different and something to grow accustomed to.

I am toying with the idea to use some tight weave canvas or denim and hand stitch a pack sack with a top flap, waterproof it, and use it instead of the blanket wrap. I think the sack would allow more convenience in accessing items that are often used regularly along the way and generally packed in the top of my pack.

For now, though, what we have is a good usable means to carry my essential gear.

Monetary expenditure?

Only for the 10 yard roll of webbing. About 10 bucks. 

Everything else was free from the woods or already laying around.

Now? Get this thing to the woods for a trial run. I'll have more on that at a later date.

Note: Sorry about the fuzzy last picture.